Chapter 6: Tiree: ‘Tiriodh’ : The Hawaii of the North!

Back in 2016 I started a series of chapters reviewing the islands of the Scottish Hebrides and now it is time for a new one! 3 weeks ago we set off on holiday to the Isle of Tiree. Tiree which means ‘Land of the Barley’ in Gaelic lies West of the Isle of Mull.Today, however it is famed as the Hawaii of the North and as we soon realised it certainly lives up to this name with its numerous white,sandy beaches and its top class surfing.

As usual we caught the ferry from Oban. There is something quite magical about ferries, sailing away into the ocean bound for far-flung isles. The ferry was particularly busy and lively on this occasion as mid July marks the spectacle of the Tiree music festival. The festival is held near Scarinish, the main settlement on the island and the location could not be more picturesque with the tents pitched overlooking the expansive curve of white sandy beach, known as Crossapol Bay. This year the festival’s slogan was “let there be sun!” seeing as gales for the two previous years had seriously hampered the event. However this year we were fortunate and there was sun, albeit alongside a generous helping of rain and wind, but nothing that a bit of local Tiree distilled gin and seafood paella couldn’t fix!

Tiree is also called the land below the waves because it is very flat with only a few major hills, however what it lacks in hills it sure makes up for in beaches and wildlife. If you’re looking to visit an island in Scotland with masses of wildlife then Tiree is your best bet. We saw hares everywhere and just outside our house there were flocks of linnet and near Kenavara, there is a huge colony of sea birds including gannet, fulmar and skua. More elusive is the great yellow bumblebee, a very rare bee which has one of its last strongholds on the island. Worryingly though, I must admit we did not manage to spot one despite the machair meadows, which should be their ideal habitat. Every day we heard corncrakes calling and kayaking trips always resulted in friendly seals popping us at close quarters.

Tiree Highlights: My Top Recommendations: 

Happy Valley beach– one of the lesser known beaches on the island, but in my opinion the best! We kayaked here on a very calm day but it is also possible to walk to the beach from Hynish. Wide sandy expanse, but the best bit is its hidden rockpools. At low tide they are deep enough to swim in and there are underwater channels to be explored-the stuff of dreams!

Climb Kenavara– Climb one of Tiree’s ‘rare’ hills for unbelievable views across both the beautiful Balephuil Bay and up towards Maze beach-well worth the hike and this is a great spot for seeing sea birds such as fulmar and skua.

Top 3 Beaches: The Maze, Happy Valley & Balevuillin Bay- great for surfing and watching the sunset.

Events: Tiree Music Festival- great fun & Tiree Agricultural show epitomises island life!

The Machair plains: Driving into Scarinish from Baugh, you will encounter a wide open plain of land and in the Summer this becomes a carpet of machair with huge purple orchids and red clover.

more photos coming soon *watch this space*!

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